Romain & Vincent Papilloud Petite Arvine Cave du Vieux-Moulin Vétroz 2020

Petite Arvine is widely considered the finest white grape of Switzerland’s Valais region, yet it grows on barely 150 hectares of land across the planet. It’s sort of like a marriage between the zip of a great dry Riesling along with that salty-melon kick of Muscadet – if you prefer those styles, you’ll absolutely adore this wine. The Papilloud family has been working their magic of developing brilliant whites in Vétroz for four generations, and this rarity is so easy to love for over $20 off its usual retail price!

Petite Arvine has been grown in the Valais since 1602, earning a reputation as the best white grape in the region. The Oxford Companion to Wine even called it “the finest of the grape specialties of Valais.” The thing is, there’s not much of it. Total plantings sit around 150 hectares in Switzerland, with a much tinier amount in Italy. It requires perfect conditions – sunny, not too much wind, not too dry, and not too wet – and it almost went extinct before a 1990s revival saved it. That – coupled with the Swiss’s famous lack of wine exports – makes this one of the rarest wines you’ll likely find in our wine shop.

Romain Papilloud took over the winery from his parents in 1986 as the third generation to run Cave du Vieux-Moulin, working about four hectares of vines in Vétroz alongside his wife Gladys and son Vincent. The vineyards sit on steep slopes that demand intense manual work, a happy alignment with their preference of minimal intervention. Vétroz is one of just twelve villages in the Valais with Grand Cru status, and the Papillouds happen to run one of its most revered wineries.

Now, for the actual wine. This is dry Petite Arvine that renders white flowers and ripe apricot up front, then a burst of grapefruit and lemon zest providing gorgeous lift. The classic markers of the grape are there – grapefruit, rhubarb, and a touch of pineapple and mango, with lively, well-integrated acidity. The finish delivers a curious little salty touch, like a grain of fleur de sel on the tongue. It's bright and taut and mouthwatering – and wholly mesmerizing from first sip to last drop. It has the structure to age gracefully for years, if you can keep your hands off it – and honestly, laying a couple down wouldn't be the worst idea. Order accordingly!

Pairing ideas:  A platter of scallop crudo with lemon and high-quality olive oil will be brilliant with the salty, citrusy edges of this wine.