Domaines Bunan Rosé Moulin des Costes Bandol 2024

Bandol is a sun-drenched stretch of Mediterranean coastline in Provence where the rosés carry more weight, more complexity, and more soul than anything else in their category. Domaines Bunan has been one of its most respected producers since 1961, and their Moulin des Costes Rosé has a way of resetting your expectations for what rosé can actually be. At under $25 for a 91-point, certified organic Bandol rosé, this one is a no-brainer. 

There's rosé, and then there's Bandol rosé – and the difference is not subtle. While most of Provence turns out breezy, pale-as-water sipper wines perfect for a Tuesday on the patio, Bandol operates by a completely different set of rules. The hillside vineyards above the port of Bandol sit atop a subsoil of limestone, sandstone, and marl that coaxes extraordinary depth and structure out of its grapes. The appellation mandates a significant backbone of Mourvèdre in its rosés, which gives them that characteristic weight, richness, and savory grip that makes them feel more like serious wines wearing pink-hued clothing. The 2024 Moulin des Costes is a blend of 61% Cinsault, 26% Mourvèdre, and 13% Grenache, and it showcases exactly the kind of aromatic, dry, structured expression this appellation is famous for.

The story behind Domaines Bunan is one of those wonderful, serendipitous tales that could only happen in wine. In 1954, Paul Bunan came across a newspaper article about Marlon Brando's romantic entanglement with a local fisherman's daughter in Bandol – and he never quite shook the image. In 1961, Paul and his brother Pierre purchased their first vineyard in the hills above the port of Bandol, naming it Moulin des Costes after the 18th-century Provençal manor house that still presides over the property. Three generations later, the family is still very much at the helm. Today, it is considered one of the most influential properties in the entire appellation. And since 2008, they've gone fully certified organic – farming exclusively with natural products, green harvesting, and selective picking to honor the maturities of each parcel.

The 2024 Moulin des Costes pours a copper-salmon-y pink and immediately announces itself with an expressive, fruit-forward nose. Floral notes and mineral lift lead the way, followed by raspberry and strawberry, with nectarine, rose hip, and a hint of dried herbes de Provence woven underneath. On the palate, it opens up with a silky, almost oily mouthfeel – round and present, with a seductive lemon, oil, and red berry persistence. The grapes are pressed immediately at harvest, then fermented in stainless steel tanks for 11 to 17 days, preserving every bit of freshness and varietal character. This is a rare rosé that drinks beautifully now but won't fall apart if a few bottles end up hiding in the back of your cellar for a year or two. For under $25, there is genuinely no reason to buy just one.

** My husband said this was the best rosé he’s ever had. Because he’s married to me, a rosé apologist, he’s tried plenty – so this really is high praise as a self-professed “not much of a rosé guy.” In case you needed one more reason to order yours! **

FOOD PAIRINGS: Go classic Provence with a platter of grilled whole branzino with lemon, capers, and fresh herbs, alongside a ramekin of garlicky aioli and crusty baguette. Absolute perfection.