Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Les Taillepieds Volnay Premier Cru 2022

Taillepieds is one of Volnay's greatest terroirs, and Bitouzet-Prieur owns a sliver of it, with vines planted back in 1971. It translates to “cut feet,” calling back to the sharp, loose stones scattered throughout the soils of the steep hillsides that have made this site historically challenging to farm. The 93-point 2022 is an absolute wonder of a Pinot Noir with rich, immense concentration, yet totally smooth in texture. Now, it’s one of the best prices anywhere, with FREE shipping on only two!

François Bitouzet took over from his parents – Vincent Bitouzet of Volnay and Anne Prieur of Meursault – around 2010, uniting two important Burgundy families into one estate holding roughly 12 hectares across some of Volnay's and Meursault's best premier crus. One of his first moves was converting the vineyards to organic farming in 2013. Even so, Bitouzet has long been a bit of a secret, and the wines historically earned better tasting notes than they did big scores. Turns out it wasn’t a bad thing, as the lack of critical hype kept them thrillingly under the radar for people who love classic Burgundy.

Their slice of Taillepieds is tiny – just 0.72 hectares, planted mid-slope in 1971, 1983, and 1997 – so these are proper old vines with over 50 years on the eldest plantings. Les Taillepieds earned its names via the sharp little stones that have literally cut the feet of workers digging and tending the vines on its steep slope. The site faces southeast and runs across gravelly marl and limestone over light brown clay, resulting in a Pinot with thundering minerality, as well as savory red fruit and delicate floral notes riding on top of that overarching sense of stone.

The timing also happens to be excellent, as 2022 is a vintage people are genuinely excited about. Wine Spectator called it a great vintage that gave Burgundy its best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since 2017. This 2022 shows a lovely nose of raspberry, wild strawberry, and briny oyster-shell notes, with a medium-bodied, fleshy palate of sappy red fruit layered with enough acidity to stay bright and fresh. In my glass, it unfurled slowly with cranberry and crushed rock up front, a touch of wild herbs and orange peel underneath, and a finish that swerves toward genuinely salty minerals, like licking a wet stone at the beach (in a totally normal way). It drinks beautifully now with a brief decant, and will also stand the test of time for many years in your cellar. With free shipping on two or more, at least a couple bottles is really the only way to go!

FOOD PAIRINGS: Pinot with salmon is one of my all-time favorite pairings, and this one would be spectacular with a teriyaki salmon bowl complete with creamy avocado, edamame, jasmine rice, cucumber, soy glaze, and a sprinkling of nutty sesame seeds.