Opaque violet color. Ripe dark berry, cola and floral aromas, with a strong accent of incense. Fat, sweet, and palate-staining, offering intense red and dark berry preserve flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Powerful yet comes off as quite graceful. Finishes very long and sweet, with supple tannins and persistent spiciness.

The 2010 Aalto was assembled and ready for bottling when I visited the winery. It is already showing great precision and focus on the nose with vanilla-tinged dark cherry and cassis fruit, followed by an undertow of candied orange peel. The palate is already displaying wonderful balance, with supple, very fine tannins and a luscious, sweet candied finish that offers blood orange and tangerine-infused dark fruit. There is a crisp theme of acidity to keep everything balanced. This is very promising. Drink 2016-2030. I made a brief but profitable visit to the splendid Aalto winery, the joint venture between ex-Vega Sicilia winemaker Mariano Garcia and Javier Zaccagnini. The impressive, modern-looking facility in which they first vinified the 2005 vintage is incomplete, at least in terms of non-essential accoutrements such as a car park or a tasting room. Javier told me that the five-story winery is based entirely on gravity transfer and is equipped with tools to make the best wine possible. They intend to add the less essential “frills” to the winery once they have repaid the loan, which is soon, apparently. Early vintages from 2000 came from outsourced fruit, though now their wine is sourced entirely from their own plots from several villages (around 110 in total). A tasting of individual lots of the nascent 2011 demonstrated their heterogeneity and so Aalto is a masterclass in the art of blending as much as terroir expression. The “PS” is only produced in the finest vintages from the best plots, which Javier analogized to picking the best players for the Spanish football team. Some older vintages were kindly opened for me as a reference point, although frankly speaking, I felt that they were denuded of the quality of recent vintages since they had to suffice with out-sourced fruit that was vinified in a rented winery back in those early days.