The second vintage of this after the first in 2000 and it needs air to open up. The sweet, spiced earth and dried black cherries are super fresh. Very complex with crushed violets, tobacco and leather, too. The palate is seamless, long and juicy. Dense flavors and elegant tannins. Polished and long. Wow!

Alluring aromas and rich flavors mark this powerful red. It's thick and muscular, but remains graceful, with ripe plum and blueberry flavors supported by plenty of sweet, toasty oak. Sophisticated and expressive. Best from 2005 through 2012. 250 cases made.

The 2001 Aro looks as if it has not aged one iota. Similarly, the nose is precocious with vibrant cassis, blueberry, hoisin and mint. The palate has a silky smooth entry with chocolate-tinged, dark cherry fruit laced with a touch of salt. It has a great arching backbone and a tannic finish suggesting that this could easily last 20 or 30 years. Drink 2016-2025. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape.