Domaine Amelie & Charles Sparr Riesling Altenbourg Alsace 2021

Bone dry yet brimming with lush orchard and exotic fruits, this Alsatian Riesling is crafted with top-tier care and hails from a site right next to the Grand Cru vineyard of Furstentum. It’s basically Grand Cru in disguise, boasting substantial mineral depth and intensity thanks to its old vines and deep root systems, for a mind-boggling price of just $29.95.

Charles Sparr comes from a historic négociant family going way back to the 17th century, while Amélie Buecher grew up in a family sternly committed to biodynamic farming. After the sale of the family négociant business in 2007, Charles retained key vineyard parcels and began converting them to organic and then biodynamic farming. He and Amélie – who met at a wine fair in 2010 – eventually merged their family lands to create a domaine that bolsters both tradition and a charmingly modern vision of Alsace winemaking.

This 2021 single-vineyard Riesling comes from the Altenbourg vineyard, which neighbors the Furstentum Grand Cru site – making this somewhat of a Grand Cru-level wine without the label (or price). Raised biodynamically without synthetic chemicals, the Demeter-certified vines were planted in the 1970s, lending deep concentration and complex flavors to the wine. The soils are clay-limestone with sandstone elements, giving it this crisp, chalky minerality that is to die for.

There’s a stunning tension here between refreshingly dry and textured fullness. It is a clean, ripe, and vibrant Riesling that would play so well with so many foods – from spicy Asian dishes to funky and aged cheeses to, of course, a plethora of seafood. A bounty of pear, mandarin orange, apricot, pineapple, and white flowers give this remarkable brightness, cut with searing acidity, while a long, chalky, slightly salty finish delivers on the minerality front. So very generous and precise, and made with the highest level of care and attention… You could easily pay double our price and still be very happy with this wine.

FOOD PAIRINGS: I’m a sucker for coconut shrimp; the sweet, savory, and crunchy elements will bring out so many fun nuances in this dry and layered Alsatian Riesling.