Reviews
Technical Details
- CountryItaly
- RegionTuscany
- AppellationTuscany
- VineyardSuiassi
- Farming MethodCertified Organic BioAgriCert and Demeter Certified Biodynamic
- Alcohol14%
Duemani Syrah Suisassi Costa Toscana 2017
High above the Tuscan coastline, the boutique winery DueMani sits in the tiny town of Riparbella. The name of the winery translates to “two hands” – a representation of proprietors Elena Celli and Luca D’Attoma’s contribution to developing small-production, biodynamically grown, terroir-centric wines that leave a lasting impression. Their 2017 Suisassi syrah does just that – 99 POINTS and an enigmatic wonder of a wine that we just happen to have at the BEST price in the USA!
“This is a wonderful syrah with superb density and, at the same time, finesse and a quality of tannin that is most impressive...Superb texture.” – James Suckling
In 2001, the couple first purchased seven hectares of land in Riparbella, set in the mountains high above Bolgheri, that had previously been left wild and uncultivated for many years. Covered in Mediterranean shrubs, dense clay, and large stones, it was a site that needed a little TLC, and then some. Yet, Elena and Luca saw past the imperfections and understood the vast potential of these elevated vineyards. Set 820 feet above sea level and along a severe ridge, the vineyard bakes beneath the sun during the days, while the coastal breeze provides exceptional air flow and distinctly cooler nighttime temperatures. The variations in temperature, along with the extreme environment and rustic terroir, allow the grapes to slowly mature and reach a balanced bouquet and elegant complexity. Scents of both forestland and the sea waft throughout the property, and since its origin, DueMani has grown to 12 hectares of vineyard land, producing less than 4,000 cases of wine annually.
Committed to biodynamic and organic farming practices, Elena and Luca aim to produce clean, vibrant, and pure wines of their favorite varietals, including cabernet franc, merlot, a bit of grenache, and, of course, syrah. (They make one of our all-time favorite Italian cabernet francs, by the way.) Elena was born in the nearby town of Lucca and studied marketing in Florence before working in the fashion industry for several years. Luca comes from Borgo San Lorenzo and has been a renowned winemaker and consultant for decades, collaborating with wineries throughout Italy, Spain, and Switzerland since the early ‘90s. He’s the genius behind such cult hits as Le Macchiole and Tua Rita – two of my very favorite Italian “others” – as well as plenty of other Italian production heavy hitters, before launching his own renowned label with Elena by his side.
If you’ve never had an Italian syrah, this is one you absolutely must. It’s not the most populous variety planted in Italy, but syrah can do very well, especially in locales that bring out the best qualities in the grape like, you guessed it, DueMani’s hilltop, coastal, diurnal variation climate. Superbly dense, brilliantly silky, and graceful, this 2017 vintage sings of dark cherries, crushed raspberries, richly supple licorice, and a seriously romantic herbal blend of sage, lavender, and mint...with a slight undertone of savory dry-cured meats. Undergoing a royal treatment of fermentation in a combination of terracotta, cask, 600-liter barrels, and open-top barriques, it spent between 30 to 35 days on the skins with the lengthier macerations in the larger vessels. It aged in a mix of 22- and 300-liter barrels, creating a true masterpiece unlike any other syrah you’ve ever tasted – and one you’ll be elated to get in your glass straight away (with a few more in your cellar).
PAIRING IDEAS: Hear me out...bratwurst. Yes! The smoky German sausage is an excellent date for the fruit-forward, earthy, and deeply vibrant flavors in this elegant syrah. Grill ‘em up with some cabbage and potatoes, and don’t forget the spicy mustard.