The second vintage of this wine, the 2018 Chardonnay Powder House comes from eight acres of what are now estate-owned vines planted in 2013 to Hyde Old Wente and Mt. Eden clones on Goldridge soils. The vineyard is located in downtown Forestville, right across from the high school. It bursts with tantalizing notions of peaches and cream, orange sherbet and lemon pastilles giving way to a grounded, serious core of Bosc pears, beeswax and baking bread. Full-bodied with a gorgeous creaminess to the texture, it delivers loads of citrus sparks among the stone fruit background with a lively backbone and very long finish. 1,000 cases were made.

The first vintage of this cuvée I’ve been able to taste (it was first made in 2017), the 2018 Chardonnay Powder House comes from a site on the Sonoma Coast and is from a mix of old Wente and Mt. Eden clones. Its lighter gold hue is followed by a beautiful bouquet of white flowers, honeyed white peach, nectarines, and mint. It’s a classic Aubert Chardonnay, with clean, pure, complex aromatics, full-bodied richness, bright acidity, and a stunning sense of opulence pared with freshness. Drink bottles over the coming 7-8 years.

Smoky richness accents the concentrated apple and peach pastry flavors, supported by steely acidity. Luscious spiciness emerges midpalate, with a long finish that lingers with intense minerality and sea salt details. Best from 2022 through 2027. 946 cases made.

Lots of aromas and flavors of lime zest and lime curd, dried pineapple, hawthorn and crushed hazelnut. Full-bodied and oily on the palate with lingering notes of lime and flint. Tight ending, but keeps going. Drink or hold.