Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard Anderson Valley 2017

Jeb Dunnuck
The 2017 Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard comes from two separate blocks in the vineyard and slightly younger vines. Aged 10 months in 25% new French oak, it has terrific purity in its dark fruits, crushed flowers, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. It’s medium to full-bodied, balanced, has fine, integrated tannins, and is a long, complex, classic Pinot Noir to drink over the coming decade.

Vinous
The 2017 Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard is the one wine in this range that isn't quite up to the level of the others. The vineyard designate Bearwallow Pinot is sourced entirely from the younger vines Kevin Harvey planted with modern spacing (as opposed to the appellation wine, which is sourced from older vines that were planted with less rigor). In 2017, the heat of the season appears to have shocked the younger vines more than the older vines (which is normal) and left the wine with perceptibly aggressive tannins. There is good depth in the glass, but the coarseness of the tannins is inescapable. Perhaps bottle age will help to some degree. I prefer the appellation-level Pinot quite a bit.